Louis Egbe Mbua (Originally published in Living Lights)
It is a strange twist of fate: how privilege can turn into disaster; how the privileged elite may be so wrong headedly spoilt -- such a pity. A touch down at the Douala Airport in Cameroon reinforces beliefs that what is served on a platter of gold may turn out to be a bitter pill that may not be swallowed by hard-working citizens. For almost half a century, the elite of this part of Cameroon have held sway in Power. Ahmadou Ahidjo from Garoua came; did his own part of development and left. Monsieur Paul Biya, from Mvomeka, again from French-Speaking Cameroon also arrived, did little or nothing and has never left after 27 years. The English-Speaking Cameroon on the West Bank of the River Mungo has not had a look in. Rather, their human and natural resources have been looted, supposedly going to develop Douala, Edea, Ebolowa, Garoua all in La Republique du Cameroun; so the story goes. Or is it?
Arriving Douala, the economic powerhouse of Cameroon paints a completely different story. One could hardly recognise the once shining and state-of the art international Airport, which was the pride of Cameroon. The deterioration of this once colossal edifice is frightening. Tiles have never been replaced; no electronic notice board to inform passengers on their various destinations and schedule. Is this Africa? Well, yes but Africa in the sub-sahara. A few hours behind, one had arrived Tripoli from Gatwick, London on board The Afriquiyah Airways with their distinctive 9.9.99 logo on the Airbus 320. While one can say that Gatwick was a class ahead, Tripoli was not far behind in their organisation. Nobody asked for a bribe to pass through custom. Although flights are delayed, there was a modern electronic notice board detailing the different flight schedules. Another Africa? No. A Renaissance Africa? Perhaps. Development? Correct. Back to Douala.
The external decorations of the International Airport have remained untouched for at least 30 years. The old paint has worn off; the assignations have never been renovated. Okay, that may be due to the crise economique that has been on-going since 1987 -- 22 years now. At least there must be something good about Douala. We have Swiss Air, Belgian Airlines, Air France, Kenyan Airways and all the popular Air carriers landing at the Douala International Airport. Now, who are these people coming to Cameroon; and why? Firstly, on arrival and checking out, there is a mass of unemployed youths roaming around the airport --looking for the odd job here and there that may be provided by incoming travellers. So, why are they not given jobs in the city? A quick glance at the roads around the Douala Airport provides tentative answers. These roads have not been maintained for at least twenty years. Where have the revenues from all the Airport taxes gone to? I asked one of the youngsters hanging around. Well, you may ask Mr. Paul Biya was his answer, shrugging his shoulders. Now why not renovate the entire Airport, providing these youths with real employment; at the same time generate revenue from taxes?
We are now going into the City. A whiff of unpleasant smell caught my attention; and I was forced to ask more questions. So I asked my brother: What exactly is this smell? Well, there is a stagnant lake just over the other side. Animals come there to drink was his rapid response. I never asked any more questions as to what, exactly, are the kinds of animals. Why would a city have animals apart from domesticated ones? What kinds? We drove passed the palm tree lined roads of the old beautiful Douala. I noticed all the old buildings. The difference is that they have deteriorated; the paint has all worn off. Don't the owners of these buildings do renovations? Well, no, was the answer. Why? I was met with a deafening silence as though I had committed a crime. So, I had to think of an answer. I began by questioning my own mind. Now, I thought, all the money from SONARA (The State owned National Refinery in Victoria) and the Cameroon Development Corporation (Again based in Victoria) ends up in the Douala City Council in one form or the other? Yes, was the response that entered my inquisitive mind. So, what happened to these funds? Then like flash of lightning, I recalled that there is a Prison Centrale in New Bell, Douala. Who are these people in this prison? Well, a number of people who have allegedly embezzled money from the City Council. How much money? I reminded myself of people stealing millions of pounds of state money; and that some of them are locked up in New Bell. Now, I see. Off to the City.
The next day, early in the morning, I was woken up from my fourth floor flat by a thunderous noise of a multitude of machines. I went to the Balcony to investigate. What I saw was frightening. There were at least a hundred cyclists buzzing through the street transporting people -- women, men, children, and goods on their heads -- no protection. At first glance, I thought it was a motorcycle race. So, I asked: who are these people? I was viewed with surprise and half-laughter. These are "bend-skins". Most of them are graduates from University, they said. They had no jobs after completing their various courses. These machines provide them with jobs; and that this has actually cut down crime since they were idle. All good: and fine. But this is too simplistic a solution and a waste of talent, I said. The solution to this transport problem is easy. Why not build flyovers to cut down traffic congestion in Douala? More effectively, why not build an underground train system like in London so these graduates can apply their knowledge of accountancy, law, management and engineering? This will wipe out this maddening traffic in one full swipe. After all there is money. Nobody answered me. It seemed I was having a soliloquy.
Now, let me go out to see. Went out, there was enterprising spirit amongst the population -- traders, big business, banking and commerce. I decided to take a closer look at the drainage system. The entire drainage appears to have been blocked with all kinds of residues. Why can't the City Council contract a cleaning firm to clean this City every day? This will provide employment, prevent diseases such as malaria, put money into the nation's tax coffers, reduce crime? What is the point of all these companies doing business in an unclean city?
There are good parts of Douala which I have not mentioned. But the point of contention is that having privileged Francophone elite who hold sway of power does not guarantee development. For 50 years French-speaking Cameroon has been wielding power, taking resources from English-speaking Cameroon. One would have expected them to use it to advance their own part of the country. But they have done the complete opposite -- running down French-speaking Cameroon to the point of disrepair. Douala is a neglected City.
Next: Advancement in Anglophone Cameroon -- a paradox in African development
Louis,
i enjoy your style man! You keep the mind racing till the end.
Yea, not just Douala, but the whole of Cameroon is so blatantly neglected and i just can't figure out why! Even the miserable elevators were out of order, and i got saddened because i build electronic machinery, and design optical fibre sofware programmes.
I got truly saddened at the airport... man the confusion was horrific. Nobody seems to be incharge, and eventhouth i was glad to be home after a long while, i got overwhelmed with pangs of despair to see what that place had become. I just couldn't reconcile the nostalgic memories that i had of that airport when i skipped the country, and the chaotic jungle that i witnessed.
Worse yet was the once magnificent Camship building man! I couldn't believe that with all the money i witnessed flowing through that structure, the place was left to decay in such a shameless way. Like you, i asked questions to the officer that assisted me to get my vehicle, but all i got were conceited shrugs. Yea man, the country is sick, and millions of people are suffering while the conceited criminals shrug their shoulders!
Well, atleast we who live abroad can help by first telling this story, and then committing ourselves to do something to elevate the country. Clearly, something must be done.
Lastly, about cleanliness, well i guess the notoriously filthy and smelly London doesn't have much to offer Douala.
Posted by: Ras Tuge | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 04:31 AM
Thank you Mr.Louis Mbua. Your insight account of the decay of our once buoyant city is a tragic one. In 1975, when i flew from that airport, things were quite different. It was the envy of most BEAC countries. Today, following your account, it is an eye sore.Your style of writing is impressive.Eventhough you did not call names eveyone knows who the culprits are. This is the most accurate way to criticize the powers that be.This style hurts the most.Brandishing their names gives them undeserved publicity. Once more thank you.
Posted by: Emmanuel Jacob | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 12:05 PM
Ras Tuge,
were you denied a visa to the UK? hahahaha. Be honest with yourself; are you really comparing the sanitation level in London and Douala? wow! just wow.
Louis
Amazing read, job well done. I must add, however, that Cameroonians too need to take responsibility when it comes to personal and public hygiene. It has become a norm to piss on roadsides or throw your groundnut shells in front of random people's houses or fling your trash through a car window and the list goes on. We need to be more willing to take care of our environment. We can't blame the government for everything.
Posted by: UnitedstatesofAfrica | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 12:15 PM
A disgruntled person doesn't give a damn about anything that he/she would not be legally held accountable for. The cry against littering in Cameroon should be legislated with a fixed penalty paid by defaulters. Radio and TV stations have a big role to play in this issue. I'm afraid if we leave this at individual level, we would not move a step further. Everybody can be everybody's spy.
Posted by: Bob Bristol | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 01:44 PM
Louis,i decorate you with a red feather,which is a symbol of honour and greatnes.Chiar is not left out,Bob Bristol,Tug Ras,Dr.Prof.Emmanuel,Ayuk Hamiton,Emmanuel Konde,United states of America,Hahaha,Ma Mary.The list is long.Your efforts will never be relegated to the background.
My people say! with the clash of opinion a spark of truth is release.for the past three weeks opinions have clash and we can see the various camps in which we all belong.Brothers,we disagree to agree,let us partly agree to vote out the incumbent.
Posted by: Asafor valentine | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 05:28 PM
louis,on the 16/05/2008 i travel to Nigeria participated in a United Nation workshop on Disaster Management and Risk Reduction.
From the Abuja airport i took a connecting flight to the Mutala Muhamed International airport to travel back to Cameroon.While in Nigeria i pay surprise visit to the Cameroon Embassy in Nigeria.I was shocked that when i presented CFA francs the secretary General refuse and responded that we are interested in CFA cottonu not CFA Cameroon.That was my first embarracement,when i was on board, destination Douala airport i was happy for my home coming, upon my arrival at the Douala aiport,no comments please revisit louis wonderful write up,just a replical of what i saw.Infact this reminds me of the defunct Bamenda airport,that has become a military base to check the activities of North west elites, what a shame. We must do something gentlemen,we are running out of time.
Posted by: Asafor valentine | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 06:07 PM
Keep it up Cameroonians and Friends of Cameroon.
The "Spark of the truth" must remain lively henceforth till this present Cameroon government go to hell. Speak up, out and in. Cameroon deserves better. The rallying song is too dull. The faith our fathers has put to shame. Cameroon is indeed sick, and not free. 5o years has been lost.50 years of failed government. 50 years of confucion,hatre,shame,divide.I want my Cameroon back. Just as it was with my fore fathers.50 years of corruption. For how long shall this be going on?
Posted by: Biyiti | Tuesday, 25 August 2009 at 08:32 PM
Massa Valentine abeg no mention me witi dat self-hating, aratta eating Konde. Ah for pray for e bot ma ngambe man say e own na lost cause. See me oh!
Posted by: Hahaha | Wednesday, 26 August 2009 at 11:42 AM
Ah, ma brother make you no vex oh,ah want make na peace for country people ohhh.hahaha,a beg make we make peace no.thank you brother.
Posted by: Asafor valentine | Wednesday, 26 August 2009 at 04:38 PM
That country na wahoooo. Thanks alot louis for that juicy and unforgetable recap. I was in Cameroon from the 1st of jan - 13th of march 2009, ofcourse my experience match with yours totally. Men, we need to do something else, our young ones will lament. Thanks once more Louis, u're inspiring.
Posted by: Aammy | Wednesday, 26 August 2009 at 07:19 PM
Louis Egbe Mboa for President - 2011.
take on the old pretender. yes we can.
Posted by: kumbaboy | Wednesday, 26 August 2009 at 09:35 PM
The real problms in cameroon is that of mentality. Million could be spent on a project but there are not supervision, mentoring, correction,nor interest.
If the cameroonian were to be sent to a country in europe and the whites folks there head to cameroon . I am most sure after a couple of months cameroon shall be transformed into a miniature ( Paradie ) . And the cameroonian shall turned the white folks land up and down until it gonna be messed up again and again. And not long enough , we,ll longed going backed to africa again since those white folks must has tranformed the land to a miracle. Mental problms .Ron
Posted by: Ron | Sunday, 30 August 2009 at 06:36 AM
Hospitals in most parts of Anglo-Cameroon are empty and dirty heavens for death and propagation of diseases.
While public funds are mismanaged and Cameroonians do have have save laboratories for emergencies situations.
While the president is more of Europe than Cameroon. He takes vacations on luxuious camps in Europe, spending not less than 45.000 Euro for accomodation alone per day.
While Cameroonians are dying on the streets without water, food and air for survival.
What a big shame? They pride themselves in european suits and ties and forget where they are coming from.
Posted by: Biyiti | Sunday, 30 August 2009 at 11:16 PM
My Brothers and Sisters
I commend you. You have done what a wise man does: Leave the country if you cannot fight them. Simple economics will collapse the system and then we can all return home. The Wicked Shall Perish.
Posted by: Longue La Bwindea | Tuesday, 01 September 2009 at 06:00 PM
WHY THEN DO YOU SOUTHERN CAMEROONIANS KEEP
SAYING MY COUNTRY CAMEROUN? JUST WHAT IS YOUR COUNTRY? I BEG TO KNOW. BUT FOR SURE YOU ARE NOY FROM CAMEROUN, SINCE CAMEROUN MEANS LA
REPUBLIQUE DU CAMEROUN , EAST CAMEROUN. INDEPENDENCE FROM FRANCE IN 01/01/1960.
JUST BUILD AN INTENATIONAL AIRPORT IN KUMBA
AND MAYBE, YOU GUYS WILL HAVE A FEELING OF CITIZENSHIP OF SOUTHERN CAMEROONS
Posted by: DANGO TUMMA | Thursday, 03 September 2009 at 09:11 PM
bunkum,clean your house
Posted by: debussi tande | Monday, 07 September 2009 at 02:04 PM
Do not impersonate people's identities!
Posted by: Oyez | Monday, 07 September 2009 at 09:53 PM
Very interesting, but also very sad!
Posted by: Adolf A Agbormbai | Friday, 20 November 2009 at 07:13 PM