A Journey to Yaounde (2): A Tour of The City

 

                                    Louis Egbe Mbua (originally published in Living Lights)

 

The problem was to navigate through the windingly dangerous Douala-Yaoundé Highway as was observed by the manoeuvres of the driver. We arrived at Edea at about an hour’s time after leaving Douala—and thank goodness without any incident. The African forest stood majestically in our view even just after Douala City was left behind. The share greenery that contoured the equatorial scenery was breath taking: hardwoods, shrubs and possibly other important medicinal plants could all be seen and observed as we turned and swerved.

What struck me most was the narrowness of the road. Why is this road so narrow? I tasked my conscience. At least the roads through Likomba are like Boulevards: broad to the equivalent of three cars. Is the present road up to international standards then? When we arrived at Edea, the driver stopped the vehicle for refreshments. As soon as the bus driver gently applied the brakes, a great number of Cameroonians jumped into the bus. What are they looking for? I thought. It was only minutes before I realised their seeming predicament.

 

There were young people aged between 7 and 55 bringing all kinds of foods into the bus: Matumba! Matumba! They shouted. This was extremely surprising as we had just passed the Aluminium smelting plant, Alucam, located at Edea; and where enormous hydroelectric power is harnessed from the mighty Sanaga River. Why then is it that these inhabitants have no jobs, apparently, but sell food stuff along the road. Are these profitable businesses as to provide a man with a decent living or do they subsidise this occupation with other professional undertakings? I continued to wonder and ponder as the huge bus jolted from one blind turn after the other along the journey.

This company, Alucam, and the Edea Hydroelectric Dam, have been operational in Cameroon for as long as one could remember. What then are the knock on effects on the local population and the infrastructure in their enduring years inoperation? As far as I could see on the peripheries of the main road, there were no visible signs of significant infrastructure. The most noticeable indication of  a discernible land mark was the classical German Arch-Bridge that spanned the River Sanaga. On its side, appears to be another Bridge of little aesthetic merit --- probably built after independence of the Republic of Cameroon in 1960. Thus, this lack of human advancement and infrastructural presence may be due to lack of investment in genuine job-creation, and by extension, in people; I reasoned. What was done about 30 years ago has seemingly never been altered. In any case, the driver continued in his winding journey through the thick equatorial forests of Cameroon. Having fallen asleep, I was awakened by another jolting stop at Bimnyobel, an hour’s drive from Yaoundé with the same routine of food selling.

 

Arriving safely in Yaoundé was such a relief. The characteristic red earth was visible everywhere. But what struck me was that Yaoundé had hardly changed in three decades. One could recognise all the old buildings on the road side. We navigated until we reached the Motor Park in heartland Yaoundé. Having taken a rest, I decided to take a tour around the City. Where is Score, Le Supermarche? I asked the taxi driver. Oh! It is no longer situated in its position. You can see that it has been replaced by a casino. We drove passed Intelcam, Cameroon’s equivalence of British Telecommunication, BT. The same building stood there; the only improvement was that a 7-8 storey building has been erected behind the old 4-5 storey building. Not much change then? I said. The taxi driver laughed; and said: "No." I asked no further questions. On the other hand, I observed the City was cleaner and much more organised than hitherto.

We went passed through Le Cite Verte, a modern estate of block of flats built by the Cameroon government about 35 years ago to house the population of Yaoundé at subsidised rents. This was a shocker as the very modern and well kept flats have deteriorated so much so that it was difficult to recognise these buildings. Who are these people staying here? Well, it appears most people living here are Nordiste, was the taxi man’s unflinching response. Why is that? Well, the government has a policy of some kind of ownership of the occupant having stayed in any of the flats for a certain number of years, was the answer. Most that were offered these flats were from the North of Cameroon since it was means tested; and they qualified, he continued. That is a reasonable policy but I have a problem, I said. The people may own the flats but it is the government’s responsibility to maintain the entire estate: block by block as they must still hold the ground leasehold as landlords, if I may suggest. The taxi man merely shrugged.

It was time for lunch after the extensive tour. Where can one buy lunch here? There is a place near Ngoa-Kelle; near Le Carrefour Emia, I was informed. Good, I thought. This will provide me with an opportunity of seeing my old hide outs near the University of Yaoundé. We took another taxi and arrived at our destination after passing by Pharmacie Le Carrefour still located in the same spot. What, exactly, is the name of this place, I demanded of my niece. It is called Weya: it is owned by an Anglophone from Bamenda. All civil servants in the Ministries come here to eat their lunch. It is very popular; and the food is very good, she replied. I acquiesced to this acute assessment of a connoisseur and fashionista graduate de La Universite de Yaoundé.

On entering the main path to the restaurant we met two immaculately dressed (Cameroonians like nice clothes; and uniforms) male and female who were almost certainly student officers – and who politely extended their Bonjours, and which we returned with genuine polity. When we got into the eatery, it was about 2.00 pm; and the entire joint was jam-packed with suited men and dressed women having their exquisite dishes of their choice. A waiter ushered us onto a convenient seat. Now: the moment of truth.

Having settled down in the well organised and neat seat layout, I asked the lone waitress: “Can we have the menu, please?” The waitress looked astonished. Her face changed from delightful to what may be described as scornful. I wondered whether I had breached a basic etiquette. As I was about to repeat myself, my niece whispered, “There are no menus here, for this is not London; just announce your choice of food and it will be delivered to you in precinct platter.” I really was not convinced by this proposed arrangement but I remembered that I was in Africa -- a different continent with a different social expectations -- so I changed my question: “What exactly do you have then”, I demanded the waitress. She never bothered to respond.

As one was famished, I looked around to observe as to what was the popular taste of the diners. My niece ordered her own lunch. I now realised that if I do not act swiftly, I will not have any food. So, having made a mental note on this epicurean experiment I decided to try again – but this time from the waiter: “Can I have eru*?” Well, there is none left, was his reply. Fine: please, give me equacoco bible*. The diners next to me all turned and looked at me with amusing amazement possibly feeling that I must have arrived but that same day -- they were right. Now, this was beginning to transform into a social disaster on my part. My niece, not knowing what to make of this decided to intervene to help me out me with a precisely delivered verbal menu: Achu, rice and stew, kati kati, ripe plantain and roast fish, fried chicken. I ordered Achu* and Chicken. Before long, we were politely joined by two other Cameroonians – one Francophone and an Anglophone. Having had a good conversation about life in Cameroon, shared a few bottles of Cameroon beer and excellent African lunch, we returned to our various sojourns where I contemplated my perilously frightening return journey through the Yaoundé-Douala Highway. Will I arrive intact? I murmured to myself.

 

*Popular Cameroonian delicacies.

 

Comments

[Ras tuge]

Brother,Cameroon is not as bad and as ignorant as you try so hard to make it sound. The more you pretend to be refined and the more you get boastful of Her Majesty's shit queendom where you don't belong to, the more pitiful your narrative gets.

You from England? The bitch? You chant boastfully of London as though the stinking garbage pit was some kind of Paradise! Man, clearly you've not travelled much.

You write nicely, but you always so prone to belittling your roots as though you're better than the people living dong there, since you sing a Psalm about coming in from the nasty city with roads as tiny as the kontry roads you claim to dread. In all dis ya Babylon, England get di
most miserable standard; roads, houses, girls, food, beer, suits... everyting seen?

And you kom over and over insulting di kontry dat born you man! No man dat born ina Cameroon can forget where they kom from. Tiny you from dirty London kom thrash me di kontry people with demands of a menue ina di eating chamber. Man you sly.

Listen now me broda and me sista demmal, di kontry is a nice place despite the poverty. Dis little Louis refuse to write abot the beautiful Cameroon people he met back home. He definitely never saw the beautiful life plenty kontry boys and girls demma having dong dey. Why even go to Yaounde when you can spend all your money ina Chariot town and Limbe man?

Our kontry remains our home, di beautiful home; di place where you truly relax and rest like a man, and far far away from all di police dem dat harass and hunt dong African children out of England every blessed day as we all know.

December is here again, di most dreamful vacation in di kontry. Make we go spend some bread dong dey, and share with di beautiful people, eat some real food with no menue, and study di place for eventual investment avenues. Let no man listen to dis Louis. Louise, me sorry fi you man.

[Louis Egbe Mbua]

Mr. Ras Tuge,

You made a reasonable observation since the writing is based on experience and observation. And what makes you believe that the journey is at an "ugly" end? The journey is a long one; and I have just arrived at the anti-climax.

Do you want me to write about beauty for beauty sake without seeing beauty? I can't do that.

I live in England, and find nothing wrong with that. And who said I enjoy living in England? Did you read that in the article? Extrapolations can be mistaken.

But I grant you the right of opinion.

Mbua

[asafor]

Ras,welcome back in a big applause. Louis Egbe Mbua has given a vivid descrption of his experience and shocked.He however made mention of the fact he had a good meal,the famous Achu, that is atleast a positive story about Cameroon.

Louis,we must note here that, the government could abandoned our beautiful country to ruins but our Culture will always stand tall.I personally ply on the Douala,Yaounde high way in 2008 on a few occations not on a public transport,i mean i drove myself.

Infact its a sad situation to comments on Ras.Louis, with good roads you could live in Yaounde and successfully work in Douala let alone Douala via Yaounde,but the tortuous nature of the road is a night-mare.

This same highway had consumped thousands of souls.Ras,its an issue to raise eyebrows.Bad faith,selfinterest,negligence,unpatriotism and lack of respect for the Country as a whole could lead to situations of such.Who cares? They campaign in prose and administered in poetry.Nothing to envy in Cameroon for now.

[The Entrepreneur Newsonline Inc.]

...when next you visit Cameroon, please, have the courage to meet successful people. I mean self made men and women, who have toiled on their own accord and volition to make it in Cameroon...

....you give the impression everybody in Cameroon is a failure....

...there are millions of people in Cameroon living better than millions of people in England and London: built their houses cash...bought their cars cash.....

its like you guys spend time with the paupers, in cameroon, those who beg money from you when you come from london, those who have surrendered and those who know a million and one things that do not work but know not even a single thing that works....

...you can't rub shoulders with pessimists, and expect to havest anything other than paranoia!

...you can't go around nosing for failures expecting to see success....

...what has been your contribution to re-write the wrongs you see in your family, village, community, region and country?

...So, what are your motives by the way?

[asafor]

Gentlemen,solemnly speaking,i have the impression we do not reflect on issues before we comments on. Infact some Cameroonians in the diaspora have refuse to understand and accept the sad situation the Country is going through.

It puzzles me that a group of idiot will mismanage the country for more than 30yrs and we sit in foriegn lands to support thier dirty effort. What nonsense is this? lets open our eyes and see shit. Infact am very angry with some comments in this forum.

[sango angog]

Louis writes "effortlessly" about the problems in Cameroon, but fails to tell his readers what precisely he is doing in London. As much I hate the Cameroon system of government, I won't appear as if I'm better than those currently living in Cameroon. This is what I take from Louis's writing, and it reminds of my secondary school days when those from the "coast" always thought they were better than those of us from the North West. You identify yourself as someone who attended the university of Yaounde, an indication that you were probably born in Cameroon. Please be humble in your writing. It epitomizes arrogance. We all hate the system of government, but we should not be tactless in our approach of resolving the decay.

[asafor]

My dear Sango, i suppose one way of resolving the decay we are aware of, is by exposing or through constructive criticism.My Dear brothers, the ruling government is adamant to change.

Cameroon is permanently on a decline in every sector ie,Socially, Economically,politically.Sango we must talk out these issues and shout at these devils to go away. Cameroon is run by devils brothers, open your eyes and see.Homosexual,think about it,what is it all about? Blood drinkers.

I tell you Biya,and the ruling class,sooner or later you will eat your flesh and drink from your blood.For 27yrs, he still insist to stay on,no good roads,neither a good stadium.

Talkless of abandoned airports,creeping infrastructure,lack of Industries,unemployment.insufficient energy to sustain few industries in the Country.The story is simple,Paul Biya, what do you want from the Cameroonian people? Go away" we are tired.

[Bob Bristol]

I think all of us would have love to see the Cameroon that Ras Tuge and The Entrepreneur have in their imaginations; "di place where you truly relax and rest like a man", the place void of police harassment, the place where you meet millions of successful people, where you meet self-made men and women etc.

Now Ras Tuge, very very few Cameroonians truly rest and relax or can even afford a good sleep like you're claiming. I hope you don't equate joblessness with relaxation because the minds of those people are not at rest. Those who have managed to make it live in perpetual fear of being attacked by thieves. Cameroonians are harassed day in day out by fellow Cameroonian police. This is a fact. They envy, they extort and brutalise the populace in broad day light. I don't think I'm the only one who is baffled by this your unwarranted comparison of Cameroon and London. Nobody is blind to the moral decay to which the western world has drifted to, but in terms of infrastructure, there is no call for any comparison. With the bad fate shown by our leaders, I'm afraid we may be thousands of years behind.

The Entrepreneur, we've not been able to see the millions of self-made successful Cameroonians. Bribing your way into Emia, ENAM or ENS is not self-made. Is it? Embezzling of public funds is not self-made. IS it? I wonder the number of Cameroonians who can boast of having made their way up that station of economic success without playing the games that the regime wants them to play?

What are you guys protecting?

[Ras tuge]

Master Louis,
as far as i can remember you are one brazen advocate of the Southern Cameroons statehood. If that's true, and if you have no files left to chase in Yaounde, i wonder why you even decided to go there in the first place. I spent five beautiful weeks in Cameroon last year, but except for trips to Douala to get me vehicle, i relished my time in and around Chariot town where i spent me bread.

You can't speak of observation in Cameroon, when you're a secessionist advocate, and yet fail to acknowlegde the criminal role of Her Majesty's shitdom in rendering the nation as miserable as you relish to narrate. One truly wonders if you're not one of the hordes of brainwashed Africans that would affirm when Babylon people say Africans live in trees.

Man, there's plenty of good things to write about in Cameroon, and you must desist from thrashing the common man who gets victimised by the politics of a gangster system. If you never saw any beauty in the people who spent time with you, and to whom you never seemed to stop asking stupid questions, then you must clearly be a superior human being.

Now Louis, i hate proud people and your article indicates to me that you are the type that looks down on home people, even when they wash your clothes and clean your shoes. Why do you keep on asking all these silly questions when you are born and raised in Cameroon, and you master how the system works.

I had a great time with the people back home, and even my two friends from Trinidad and Babados who came with me to see Cameroon were very impressed by the hospitality and humility of our people.

Poverty and underdevelopment is not unique to Cameroon, and if you travel across Africa, you would realise that despite everything, Cameroon is among the top nations in Sub-saharan Africa. Yea, more needs to be done for the country deserves more from the ruling junta. But all the children of Cameroon must also dedicate and commit themselves inorder to bring about any meaningful transformation in the country.

To basically keep on undermining the modest endeavours of the common man with trappings of outlandish ridicule would clearly not help the nation. Louis, you must do something about this somewhat haughty propensity of yours, and rather offer to up-grade the eating house, than to embarrass the struggling people around you. Have a conscience man.

I lived in Aberdeen for many years, and maybe even before you ever skipped the country. I still remember how my rotten school mates would make fun of Africa, and how they incessantly asked me when and why i came to Scotland and when i was going back to live in the bush. Africa must be loved by African children, and not be made fun of.

Dreadlion Asafor, thanks for di kind reception. I had decided not to write again, but i get fucking upset when any Bloodclaat writes denigrating shit about our people. Donot mistake di gangster Cameroon politics for di beautiful Cameroon people man. Politics of Lucifer take we deep dong ina dis Hell, and we must unify to erase dat evil. But elements like Louis must refrain from using me home broda and sista dem as objects of scorn. Dem are some truly nice people, and nowhere ina dis Babylon would you ever find such a nice people.

[Ras tuge]

Bristol,
an overwhelming majority of Cameroonians in England and ina dis ya Babylon are struggling with menial jobs, making just enough to eke out a livelihood. The question is not so much about comparing England and Cameroon than it is about proclaiming the fact that even in England, Cameroonians are just surviving as the unfortunate lot back home.

There's police harassment and brutality even in England bro, and tell me why hordes of home boys and girl are living in the hiding in England. The police is out to get them, and tons have already been removed. I mean, get real...you guys sound as though Babylon is some kind of Paradise or something. Alot of people are managing well in Cameroon bro. And lastly, there are more vicious thieves and hoodlums in Babylon than Africa shall ever see. You are just dreaming man.

You don't see the current joblessness in Babylon? Did you forget that England is yet to get out of recession? Must i remind you about the surge in unemployment and crime in the US. Massa wuna choose pippo. Atleast in Cameroon, jobless people can drink some good beer, whilst Doctors in England are living in mouse-infested shacks. The man that knows, will sit quite Bristol!

[Bob Bristol]

Being a secessionist doesn't erase the forthrightness of Mbua's narrative. The buildings at Cite Verte are deteriorating. This is a fact. And if you've been out of Cameroon for long, you would find it a little absurd that a very popular restaurant in a city like Yaounde should/can function without a menu.

Ras Tuge, what do you expect the police to do to illegal immigrants? We are talking of Cameroonian police harassing Cameroonian citizens and not about British police harassing non British fortune seekers. A cameroonian police referring to an Anglophone as Le Biafra? This is what the authorities were supposed to trash out.

And I'm surprise you have to compare the employment situation in Cameroon and London. The British have signals of hope all over. Pessimism looms all over Cameroon. People have tried and they have failed. The economic success of Cameroonians poses a threat to the regime. They have an obligation to keep us in penury so as to continue their hold on power.

Ras, you may not have tried your hands at something. Look man, it doesn't work. You would need a god father at one point and at another you would be oblige to bribe. You would meet all sort of crooks posing as tax collectors and you would pay all kind of taxes that are unheard of. Right at the taxation office, you would likely have to bribe before paying you bills.

When you try and fail, you would join voices with us to denounce and castigate everything about the system. The system badly needs an overhaul. This has nothing to do with the Southern Cameroons.

[Sali]

Alain Dipoko, Dibom boy.,
I don't read any abuses to anglophones in this your comment... That means you are taking my advice.
If you continue growing up...people will pay attention to your opinion even if it is stupid!

[casara]

Ras,Entrepreneur,
You guys are all fake patriots and very jealous idiots.Your contributions in this blog says every thing about you guys,clueless and cowards to boot.
We all know how our roads,life and How the Government of the Lion man operates in Cameroon.
Why is the Yaounde Douala road a two lane road?I mean these are bigs cities.Roads in Douala have turned into very deep holes.
What are these Jealous freaks talking about?
Ras are you on drugs?Mbua is more patriotic and realistic than you are,and not on the the crack like you are.shebuul,jealosy go kill wounna.

[VA Boy]

This is good writing, Louis Mbua. You describe your experiences as you see them without hyperbole. Your series makes for compelling reading. People visiting home after an interval of 5 or more years are always shocked by the deterioration over the interval. People who live in close proximity to open sewers for a longtime often learn to ignore the smell. There is nothing like absence to increase the acuteness of the senses.

If the price of "doing well" in Cameroon is kissing CPDM ass, it means nothing to me. Mr Entrepreneuronline. It is quite clear that you are a lowdown CPDM kiss ass man and praise singer. I am "doing well" where I am, thank you.

[Adolf A Agbormbai]

Who is this Ras who writes like a fool? Please read your rant above and tell us whether you've communicated anything at all.

I wonder how anyone managed to make any sense out of that commentary.

Louis has written what looks like an accurate and fair account of his experiences in Cameroon. We all know that Cameroon has serious problems. So Louis is only confirming what we already know.

Thanks Louis for reminding us about the problems back home.

Your experiences at the restaurant reminds us how inhospitable Cameroon can be to strangers. With this sort of poor hospitality and rudeness how can the country attract tourists?

All these people attacking Louis, for describing truthfully what his experiences were, can at best be described as immature. They are behaving like people who have something to hide. They are being defensive.

There's nothing to hide about Cameroon. There are objective statistics backing up what Louis has narrated. The country is in a sorry state and life is miserable.

Before you go into all your wishful thinking comparing Cameroon favourably to England just know that there is just NO COMPARISON. I love Cameroon, as my country of origin, but that does not mean that I'll support what are clearly lies about the country.

Look at objective statistics comparing living conditions and the state of development of Cameroon as against England, and you will know why you are making a complete fool of yourselves.

Don't argue out of emotion; argue out of reason. Emotional outbursts are not going to help transform Cameroon into a developed country. Accept the truth when it smacks you right in the face, and stop behaving like spoiled kids.

There may be a handful of hardworking people in Cameroon who've made it but that doesn't mean that all is suddenly well with the country. Besides, with a country as corrupt as Cameroon is, those who have made it would have done so by being corrupt. This is not the type of success we want for Cameroon.